Friday, February 20, 2009

Rainy weather in a rain forest? What??

When we arrived in La Fortuna yesterday afternoon it was absolutely beautiful, hot, but beautiful. The skies were mostly clear with a bit of clouding at the peak of the Arenal Volcano. We walked up to the hostel and checked in to a dorm because the private suites were taken. I could have kicked myself for not pre paying at Pangea. Oh well. I can be flexible about a lot of things as I get older--but I learned that I like my space. It wasn't as bad as I expected (sharing a room with 7 other people.) But I do like to be able to spread out and relax. Dad loved the scenery (the young college aged girls with hot bodies) but HATED the techno music that pulsed through the main common area. The hostel was beautiful, just not our style. To make matters worse it started to downpour around 10pm. When we woke in the morning the rain had stopped just long enough for us to walk to town to grab coffee and breakfast. Just as we arrived it started to pour again. The sky looked grim with no hopes of letting up. Over breakfast we decided to save some money and sanity and just bite the bullet and catch a bus to the Pacific. Turns out it's about a 9 hour bus ride direct to the coast because of the mountainous terrain. The fastest way to the coast would be to catch a bus to Alejuela/San Jose and then catch another bus to the coast. The rain lightened up so we quickly left the cafe and went to pack up our stuff. About 15 minutes later we were off to the bus terminal to catch a bus to....well, we weren't sure. When we got there a bus to San Carlos was getting ready to leave. We spoke with a friendly officer who pointed us to San Carlos, then to San Jose, then off to the coast. Our bags had to go underneath again b/c they are "more secure" there. They may be secure but the under storage compartments are DIRTY. I had a rain cover over my bag for today's trek thankfully, so my pack didn't get too dirty.

On the way down into the valley from San Carlos Dad suggested that we head to Alejuela, which was fine with me after 3 nights in San Jose already. We were both up for something new. I looked at the handy Lonely Planet book and picked out a few hostels/hotels to check out upon arrival. We got off at the airport and go another bus to town. Turns out, like most CR cities, there were no street signs. I'm not exagerating. NONE. Momuments and that's all. There aren't even many of those to go off off. Sticking out like a sore thumb with a giant bullseye on our backs the locals that spoke English began their descent and pointed us in the right direction. We checked out one hotel because dad was tired of walking. I vetoed it because the woman who ran it only spoke Spanish...I didn't think that would be very helpful. I decided that we should walk a few blocks and check out a few more places. We settled on a hotel with decent reviews and found a room with two beds and a shared bathroom for $28. We were set. We dropped off our bags and I told dad that I would melt down if he didn't feed me. He eventually agreed after laughing at me, thinking that it would be funny to watch me turn into the wicked witch of the west. The hotel manager pointed us to a cafe up a few blocks. We went in and waited for a seat. The place was the most packed cafe I've seen in all of CR up to this point! Dad was freaked out because they didn't serve beer, they served coffee, pasteries, and food. I told him to get over it :) We ordered burritos because, frankly, it was the only thing we recognized! The menu was in Spanish. The burrito was not memorable but I was fed and muy contento. We walked around some shops and looked around. The rain drizzle had followed so we didn't want to venture out too much. We found a wood shop with some beautiful cocobola wood. I found some canes that were intricately carved and a staff that I really wish I could have bought my Uncle Vince. I think he would really like it...but I can't really see backpacking around CR with it for another 10 days. I will have to buy gifts on my last day. Maybe it will still be there. Maybe we'll go to the village where the local tribe carves this hard rosewood. Hmmmm.

We went back to the hotel and just wanted to veg. I was going through work out withdrawl. I spent about an hour working out and made dad work out some kinks in my neck. That was funny. While today sucked a lot we kept our spirits light and are feeling much better after a recharging our batteries a bit. I just took a shower and am getting ready to work on school and follow up on some rentals I found on the Pacific Coast on craigslist.

SIDE NOTE: I'm in the hotel lobby area and there is a group of college kids planning to "go out partying." There are so many young adults traveling in groups and even solo. I am so envious. Why didn't I travel when I was younger? I am totally going to travel outside of the US more. Central America is super cheap and very relaxing. CR is the most expensive country in Central America. I bet a little American money would go a long way in some other Central American countries! Watch out world here I come...with my backpack ;) V, get ready cuz you're coming with me next time!

Thursday, February 19, 2009

The Great Arenal

Well here we are--Arenal. We left San Jose this morning around 8 to catch an 8:40am bus to La Fortuna. I thought I might have forgotten my camera so I was on edge most of the way. I met a nice woman my age, Claudia, from Switzerland who was also heading towards Arenal. We ended up staying at the same Hostel (Arenal Backpacker's Hostel). The bus ride was long and arduous all the way here. I was hoping to get some school work done but was unable to because of all of the switchbacks. The bus filled up quickly and the ride was cramped and long (5 hours). One stop for about 8 minutes in San Carlos. Today was definitely not one of our best days. Very draining. It pretty much started last night. We stayed at Hostel Pangea in SJ. I thought it would be nice to prepay our room at Arenal so we would be all set. Turns out that they only accept cash, so that didn't work out. We decided to come here for the night to find out that they only have a dorm bed available. This place touts its horn like it is the best place in town and it's all fluff--or lack of fluff. The "orthopedic beds" suck. They are the equivalent of hospital beds, plastic wrapping and all. Dad's upset (I think) because they don't have a TV room. I spent 1.5 hours trying to connect to the Internet and was finally successful, but even more frustrated. Hopefully tomorrow will be better. Arenal is much more touristy than I would like. Maybe we'll move on to a nearby town where things aren't as expensive. Seems like there aren't even any local people here just a bunch of hotels, spas, and tour guides. Things are really overpriced too. We'll see how tomorrow shakes out. Glad I got to vent a bit.

We decided that we would do 3 adventures-we would each pick one and then the third would be something that we both want to do. I definitely want to do some hotsprings. I hear that we may be able to find some free spots if we can find some local people to talk with. I'd like to do whitewater rafting and dad and I both want to do the canopy tours. There are so many tour companies bombarding you with "specials" it's really hard to know who is reputable and who is not. I'll need to do some more reading in my Lonely Planet book to be safe.

I think dad and I both enjoy the local communities more than the touristy stuff. Even if we don't speak spanish, the Ticas are just so nice and pleasant you can't help but be relaxed. I find myself more frustrated and uptight when we're around other tourists and tourist hotspots. The bus rides are very interesting, for the most part! Today I saw many heathly beef cattle grazing the countryside with chickens at their side. I'm reading the Omivore's Dilemma currently and I couldn't help but think of the natrual farm the author spoke of and how rotating the animals and the crops to more or less mimic nature is ideal. There isn't corn here. If you've read the book you might wonder how it works then. I mean, everything in America is corn dependent. Livestock relies mostly on corn as do people. We are corn. It's so refreshing to see a sustainable agriculture country that is close with the land. It's not all marketing and packaging. There are fruit stands and vendors all around with completely natural snacks. There are fruits that the street vendors serve to passers by by cutting the top off with a machete and penetrating the interior membrane with a straw. I'm not sure what these fruits are called but I am going to find out. I keep seeing these things around but haven't really bought anything from them. I will do this the next time we take a long bus trip...which will be soon.

I feel more connected here, connected to life, Earth, the people. America is exhausting. That's the only way I can put it. It's draining. It's very sobering to see millions of people living peacefully and happily with very little. Parents here are outwardly much better than in the States. I don't know what goes on in the homes behind closed doors but I can tell you that children are much different and happier here. If a child cries the parent is concerned and calming. I've seen mothers singing with their children. The relationships I've witnessed are so caring and compassionate. I have not heard one mother yell at her child, reprimand them, or threaten them. I have not seen a child misbehave. They sit quietly and play games with their parents or just chill out during long bus rides. No Gameboy, no nothing. In the US it seems like the kids are always sitting with a Game Boy or misbehaving. Almost daily in the States I see mothers yanking their 2 year olds around the grocery shouting at them and threatening them. It's so peaceful here. There are a lot of dogs that just wander the streets like regular citizens. They are peaceful too. I haven't heard own growl, seen one dog fight, or witnessed overt cruelty. Most dogs are not fixed and breed rather regularly. I know that puppies are disposed of more or less, which is unfortunate by my own standards. Things seem to work here though. I know that I feel more at peace and envious of the Costa Rican people.

OK, I need to come back to reality a bit. I have school assignments due tonight. I feel absolutely gross and need to shower before the room mates return. I'll post pics and more tomorrow.